Textiles as National Heritage: Identities, Politics and Material Culture (eBook)

Gabriele Mentges, Lola Shamukhitdinova (Herausgeber)

eBook Download: PDF

2017 | 1. Auflage
322 Seiten
Waxmann Verlag GmbH
978-3-8309-8609-6 (ISBN)

Infos

The edited volume discusses the role of textile heritage in relation to the dynamics of nation building, cultural identity, politics, economy and the globalization of markets. It was sparked by a research project investigating the role of textiles, textile design and contemporary fashion in the post-Soviet societies of Central Asia and also includes perspectives on similar developments in Algeria and Peru in order to question dichotomous narrations of modernity relations between textile cultures and heritage building, cultural property, and the concept of cultural heritage. Thus, this book intends to stimulate the ongoing debate about textile culture as national heritage or as means of nation branding.

Inhalt

Book Cover 1
Imprint 4
Acknowledgements 5
Contents 7
Introductory Remarks (Gabriele Mentges) 9
Decolonizing Heritage 12
Narratives of the Silk Road: Uzbekistan 14
Textile Heritage and National Identity 19
Crafts in Motion 21
Signifying Identity 21
Consumption Scapes: Bazaars and Other Shopping Sites 22
Performing Cultural Heritage 23
Bibliography 25
Between Design, ‘National Dress’ and Nation Branding. The Dynamics of Textile Culture in the Process of Uzbek National Formation (Gabriele Mentges) 31
Textile Cultures Now and Then 31
Performing textile traditions 35
National Dress 39
Uzbek wedding rituals and their impact on gender constellations 41
The Material of Tradition 47
Traditional Dress: A Hidden Fashion Discourse? 49
National Fashion and Textile Design 52
Nation-State, Fashion and Self-Orientalization 58
Bibliography 61
Fashionable Roots. Textile Heritage in Contemporary Fashion Design in Peru (Susana Aguirre) 67
Introduction 67
Peru’s Fashion Industry 69
Fashioning Peruvianness 72
Designer Meche Correa 73
Brand: Escudo 78
Designer: Naty Muñoz 82
Conclusion 85
Bibliography 85
Textile Tradition in Kazakh Contemporary Fashion (Gulnar Soltanbayeva) 89
Textile Heritage 90
Designing Kazakh Tradition 93
Bibliography 100
The State of Textile Arts in Today’s Kazakhstan (Ardak Yussupova) 103
Of Dyes and Colors. Cultural Change in Uzbek Textile Crafts (Melanie Krebs) 119
Natural dyes of Central Asia 122
The emergence of synthetic dyes 127
Re-inventing natural dyes after independence 130
Conclusion 133
The Rehabilitation of Khon-Atlas (Lola Shamukhitdinova) 137
Introduction 137
Technologies and the Historical Agenda of Khon-atlas 137
Dress Practices and Style 140
Does Khon-atlas Have a Future? 147
Bibliography 149
Sources 150
Uzbek Skullcaps. A Popular Headwear between Traditional High Quality and Touristic Souvenir (Lola Shamukhitdinova) 153
A Brief History of Central Asian Skullcaps 154
The Skullcap as Brand 158
Making the Skullcap Fashionable 159
Skullcaps and Their Changing Significance 165
The Skullcap as a “Cultural Resource” 167
The Issue of Quality: Some Recommendations 169
Conclusion 173
Bibliography 174
Tuskiiz – A Cultural Memory of the Kazakhs (Zhazira Zhukenova) 179
Artistic and Aesthetic Content 179
Unique Technical Features of Tuskiiz Using Appliqué 180
Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch 181
Figurative and Symbolic Meaning 183
Tuskiiz Using Appliqué 183
Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch 184
Bibliography 185
A Mosaic Picture of the World. A Close-up on Kazakh Kurak Patchwork (Gaini Mukhtarova) 187
Kazakhstani Traditions and Rites Associated with the Art of Kurak 187
Patchwork as a Way of Passing on Qualities and Protecting against Evil Spirits 192
The History of the Emergence of Kurak Patchwork 194
Special Features of the Kazakh Kurak 195
Kurak as the Philosophy of a Mosaic Picture of the World 199
Modern Uses of the Kurak Technique 200
Bibliography 202
Bazaars, Shops, Malls. Points of Sale and their Meaning for Textile Culture in Uzbekistan (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova) 205
Research on Bazaars 206
The Bazaar in Central Asian Cities 208
Structure and Organization 214
To shop – But how and where? 215
Who they are – the dealers/tradesmen 216
The Bazaar and Tourism 217
Contemporary transformations 219
Old Central stores: ZUM and GUM 222
Cities and Bazaars: An Outlook to the Future 223
Bibliography 225
Istanbul Markets. A Reloading Point for Uzbek Craft Textiles (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova) 229
Silk Road – Central Asia – Uzbekistan? The Collections of the Linden-Museum in Stuttgart: Evaluation and Interpretation in the Time of Emerging Nation-States of the Post-Soviet Era (Annette Krämer) 239
Introduction 239
The Origins of the Linden-Museum and its Central Asian Collections 239
Friedrich Kussmaul, Iran and Afghanistan: A New Focus 243
The “State Museum,” the Orient Department and the Discovery of “Turkestan” and “Turkmens” 246
Discovering “Uzbekistan:” the 1990s 255
“Uzbek Textiles” in Stuttgart – An Outlook 264
Bibliography 266
Safeguarding Uzbek Textile Crafts. Strategies and Impacts (Binafsha Nodir) 269
What Does the Term ‘Traditional Uzbek Textiles’ Cover? 270
Weaving 272
Embroidery 274
Traditional Crafts in the Context of Colonial Modernization 278
Strategies and the Revival of Traditional Uzbek Textiles 279
Museum Collections as a Source of the Traditional Arts Revival 284
Bibliography 290
A Repository of Mediterranean Memories. How a Ritual Dress Has Become a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity (Leyla Belkaïd-Neri) 293
A Complex Vestimentary Heritage 293
Facing Political Disinterest in Dress Culture 294
The Unprompted Roots of a Social Phenomenon 296
The Awakening of Governmental Authorities 298
Selection Criteria 299
A Repository of Mediterranean Memories 301
Negotiating Identity through the Rediscovery of Vernacular Styles 306
Bibliography 308
Complete Bibliography 309
Authors 321

Produkt-Details

• Erscheint lt. Verlag: 1.5.2017
• Sprache: englisch
• Themenwelt: Sozialwissenschaften ► Politik / Verwaltung
• ISBN-10: 3-8309-8609-2 / 3830986092
• ISBN-13: 978-3-8309-8609-6 / 9783830986096