Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones (eBook)

S.R. Massel (Autor)

eBook Download: PDF

1989 | 1. Auflage
335 Seiten
Elsevier Science (Verlag)
978-0-08-087086-1 (ISBN)

Infos

This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook, the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone.

Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts.

The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.

Inhalt

Front Cover 1
HYDRODYNAMICS OF COASTAL ZONES 4
Copyright Page 5
Contents 8
PREFACE 12
CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION 14
1.1 Basic ideas and assumptions 14
1.2 Kinematics of water particle 20
1.3 Dynamics of water particle 22
1.4 Conservation laws 27
1.5 References 35
CHAPTER 2. SHORT SURFACE WAVES 38
2.1 General characteristics 38
2.2 Problem formulation for short waves (II =.30 or U = 75 ). 40
2.3 First Stokes perturbation method 42
2.4 Second Stokes perturbation method 59
2.5 Analytical and numerical solution for steep waves 62
2.6 Validity of theoretical solutions 74
2.7 References 76
CHAPTER 3. REFRACTION OF SHORT WAVES BY SLOWLY VARYING DEPTH 80
3.1 Geometrical optics approximation 80
3.2 Waves in neighbourhood of a straight caustic 86
3.3 Influence of bottom friction 91
3.4 Refraction - diffraction processes 94
3.5 Propagation of waves over underwater step and channels 108
3.6 Scattering of surface waves by periodic sandbars 121
3.7 References 125
CHAPTER 4. LONG SURFACE WAVES 130
4.1 General remarks 130
4.2 Boussinesq solution (O(v) = O(d2)). Solitary waves 131
4.3 Korteweg–de Vries equation Cnoidal waves 137
4.4 Linearized long wave equation 147
4.5 Propagation of long waves over shoaling bottom 147
4.6 Edge waves 159
4.7 References 164
CHAPTER 5. WAVE MODULATION AND BREAKING 170
5.1 Nonlinear modulation of surface waves in space and time 170
5.2 Wave breaking 174
5.3 References 187
CHAPTER 6. WIND–INDUCED WAVE STATISTICS 192
6.1 General remarks 192
6.2 Stress of wind on sea surface 193
6.3 Similarity laws for wind–generated waves 196
6.4 Statistical properties of the wind waves 198
6.5 Wave groups in the coastal zone 214
6.6 Long–term statistics in the coastal zone 217
6.7 References 221
CHAPTER 7. SPECTRAL PROPERTIES OF WIND WAVES 226
7.1 General remarks 226
7.2 Width of the energy spectra 228
7.3 Spectral models of wind waves on limited water depth 231
7.4 Evolution of spectral function over shoaling water depth 242
7.5 References 256
CHAPTER 8. CURRENTS IN COASTAL ZONE 262
8.1 Currents classification 262
8.2 Wind currents in coastal zone 263
8.3 Longshore currents induced by waves 266
8.4 Rip currents and coastal circulation 278
8.5 Mass transport in shallow water 288
8.6 Tidal currents in coastal zone 292
8.7 Interactions of waves and currents 297
8.8 References 312
CHAPTER 9. VARIATION OF SEA LEVEL 316
9.1 General remarks 316
9.2 Variation of mean water level due to waves 316
9.3 Variation of mean water level due to tides 321
9.4 Seiching 324
9.5 Storm surges in coastal zone 330
9.6 References 338
AUTHOR INDEX 342
SUBJECT INDEX 346

Produkt-Details

• Erscheint lt. Verlag: 1.4.1989
• Sprache: englisch
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Hydrologie / Ozeanografie
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Meteorologie / Klimatologie
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Physik / Astronomie ► Angewandte Physik
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Physik / Astronomie ► Strömungsmechanik
• Themenwelt: Technik ► Bauwesen
• Themenwelt: Technik ► Maschinenbau
• ISBN-10: 0-08-087086-4 / 0080870864
• ISBN-13: 978-0-08-087086-1 / 9780080870861