Applications in Coastal Modeling (eBook)

V.C. Lakhan, A.S. Trenhaile (Herausgeber)

eBook Download: PDF

1989 | 1. Auflage
386 Seiten
Elsevier Science (Verlag)
978-0-08-087087-8 (ISBN)

Infos

The importance of models to facilitate our understanding and management of the coastal system is evident from this book, which shows that the preference for using models to study the coastal system is shared not only by different research institutions (government, military, industry and academia), but also by researchers from diverse backgrounds. With contributions from several leading experts a variety of models - physical, analytical, numerical and computer simulation - are presented on various components of the coastal system.

The book opens by examining the coast as a system, and provides an overview of models, systems concepts, and the systems approach. It next covers the simulation design process, stressing that modeling and simulation should form an interface between real-world processes, and the field of General Systems Theory. It is clearly shown that a system can be investigated with more than one type of model. For example, it is shown that waves can be studied with physical models, empirical and numerical models or with computer simulation models. Likewise, beaches can be investigated with physical, numerical or empirically-based models.

The indispensability of models to enhance our understanding of coastal dynamics and associated component systems is emphasised. Mathematical modeling of rock coast development and the simulation of deltaic depositional systems are covered. A chapter on analytical modeling of predator-prey interactions highlights the fact that the coastal system also has biotic resources. Finally, problems which have to be overcome for the practical application of numerical and simulation models are discussed.

The explanatory and detailed formulation of the various models, together with more than 100 figures, make this book worthwhile reading for senior undergraduates, graduate students, and all coastal researchers interested in the formulation and application of models of the coastal system.

Inhalt

Cover 1
TOC$Contents 14
Preface 6
Acknowledgements 10
List of Contributors 12
CH$Chapter 1. Models and the Coastal System 28
1.1 Introduction 28
1.2 Background to the Systems Approach 28
1.3 Why the Systems Approach? 29
1.4 The Coast as a System 29
1.5 Studying the Coastal System-Holistic and Reductionist Views 30
1.6 Significant System Characteristics 31
1.7 Modeling the Coastal System 32
CH$Chapter 2. Modeling and Simulation of the Coastal System 44
2.1 General Concepts and Terminology 44
2.2 Why Simulation? 44
2.3 The Simulation Process 45
CH$Chapter 3. Modeling of Offshore Structures 70
3.1 Introduction 70
3.2 Similarity Laws in Model Testing 72
3.3 Scaling of a Froude Model 74
3.4 Dimensional Analysis 77
3.5 Scaling of Wave Forces on Structures 79
3.6 Scaling of Reynolds Effects 81
3.7 Scaling of Strouhal Effects 85
3.8 Scaling of Towing Resistance 86
3.9 Scaling of Soft Volumes 89
3.10 Scaling of Hydroelastic Models 92
3.11 Distorted Model 95
3.12 Scale Selection and Model Design 96
CH$Chapter 4. Wave Prediction Models 102
4.1 Introduction 102
4.2 Empirical Models 104
4.3 Wave Climate Models 111
4.4 Wave Refraction and Shoaling 112
4.5 Shallow Water Models 115
4.6 Numerical Models 116
4.7 Conclusions 126
CH$Chapter 5. Computer Simulation of the Characteristics of Shoreward Propagating Deep and Shallow Water Waves 134
5.1 Introduction 134
5.2 Comments on Previous Wave Modeling Studies 134
5.3 Model Development 136
5.4 Model Execution and Results 164
5.5 Limitations and Refinements 169
CH$Chapter 6. Sandy Beach Geomorphology Elucidated by Laboratory Modeling 186
6.1 Introduction 186
6.2 A Basic Model for Describing Beach Change 186
6.3 A Parameter Describing the On-Offshore Sediment Transport Direction 191
6.4 Beach Profile Demarcation 193
6.5 Berm-Step System 197
6.6 Bar-Trough System 206
6.7 Beach-Face Slopes 213
6.8 Rhythmic Shore Forms 217
6.9 Shoreline Change 224
6.10 Concluding Remarks 229
CH$Chapter 7. Beach Profile Development 242
7.1 Introduction 242
7.2 Theory 242
7.3 Equilibrium Profile 245
7.4 Time Factor 246
7.5 Method of Calculation 246
7.6 Model Testing 248
7.7 Three-Dimensional Test 253
7.8 Effect of Tidal Smearing 254
7.9 Distribution of Eroded Sand Offshore 255
CH$Chapter 8. Space Time Monitoring of Beach Morphodynamics: A Black Box Approach 260
8.1 Introduction 260
8.2 Systems-Theoretic View of Beach Management 261
8.3 Treating the Beach as a Control System 263
8.4 The Point Pelee Situation 268
8.5 Processes Affecting the Beaches of Point Pelee 270
8.6 The Effects of Artificial Structures 271
8.7 The Study Area 272
8.8 Observations at the Northeast Beach, 1978–1986 277
8.9 Implications of the Study Results 294
CH$Chapter 9. Sea Level Oscillations and the Development of Rock Coasts 298
9.1 Introduction 298
9.2 The Model 298
9.3 The Paleo-sea Level Record 302
9.4 Falling and Rising Sea Levels 302
9.5 The Last Glacial/Interglacial Sequence 308
9.6 Multiple Sea Level Oscillations 311
9.7 Discussion 313
CH$Chapter 10. Computer Simulation of Wave and Fluvial-dominated Nearshore Environments 324
10.1 Introduction 324
10.2 General Remarks on Model Development 324
10.3 Simulating Wave Characteristics with Program WAVE 326
10.4 Background for Three-Dimensional Simulation of Wave Processes 327
10.5 Numerical Methods for Solving Equations 337
10.6 Main Program 341
10.7 Program SEDSIM 346
10.8 Modifications to WAVE and SEDSIM 350
10.9 Input Data for SEDSIM 354
10.10 Execution of WAVE and SEDSIM 356
10.11 Execution and Results of WAVE and SEDSIM 356
10.12 Conclusions and Limitations 364
CH$Chapter 11. Preferences over Cyclical Paths Generated by Predator-Prey Interactions: An Application in Coastal Ecosystem Management 368
11.1 Introduction 368
11.2 Predator-Prey Models 369
11.3 A Model 370
11.4 Preferences 371
11.5 Concluding Comment 374
CH$Chapter 12. Remaining Problems in the Practical Application of Numerical Models to Coastal Waters 382
12.1 Introduction 382
12.2 Data Compatibility and Availability 383
12.3 Computing Limitation 386
12.4 Interagency Cooperation 388
12.5 Model Validity and Availability and Personnel Training 390
12.6 Summary and Conclusion 391
IDX$Index 398

Produkt-Details

• Erscheint lt. Verlag: 1.6.1989
• Sprache: englisch
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Geologie
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Geophysik
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Hydrologie / Ozeanografie
• Themenwelt: Naturwissenschaften ► Physik / Astronomie
• Themenwelt: Technik
• ISBN-10: 0-08-087087-2 / 0080870872
• ISBN-13: 978-0-08-087087-8 / 9780080870878